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If
you’re put off by the somewhat dingy atmosphere common to the
restaurants of 9th Street NW’s Little Ethiopia enclave but are
looking for something more adventurous than what the Adams Morgan scene
offers, Dynasty Ethiopian is
willing to meet you halfway—metaphorically and geographically.
It’s located in a dilapidated storefront on 14th Street a couple of blocks
north of the U Street
bustle, but any sketchiness ends at the frosted-glass front door.
Inside, the décor is clean and crisp, the service friendly and
efficient. The cooking, however, is hardly streamlined for timid
palates. The doro wat, for example, undergirds
its almost chocolatey richness with some
considerable fire (and considerable salt, too). Some of the vegetarian
options, however, could be more aggressively spiced, particularly the
gummy kik alicha
(a savory yellow-split-pea stew) and a red-lentil mash. Likewise, the yebeg tibs
can appear rather innocuous on the plate: small, somewhat tough pieces
of lamb cooked in clarified butter with jalapeños and onions,
resembling a plate of fajitas. But paired with some surprisingly light injera and a red-pepper sauce redolent of
wine, this is much more exciting stuff than you’ll find on some
sizzling plate at Chili’s.
Mike DeBonis (mdebonis)
(6/17/2005)
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cuisine
Ethiopian
meals
& hours
Lunch:
Daily
Dinner: Daily
Happy Hour: Mon-Fri, 4-8 p.m.
Open Late: Daily to 1:30 a.m.
features
Reservations
accepted
Major credit cards accepted
Carryout
Full bar
Cigars/Pipes allowed
Vegetarian-/Vegan-friendly
Wheelchair-accessible
what's
nearby
U
St./African-American Civil War Memorial/Cardozo
Metro
Twins Jazz
Lincoln Theatre
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